The Beaux-Arts Court at the Brooklyn Museum hosted Tory Burch’s fashion show, inspired by the unforgettable Lady Diana.
The Princess of Wales never masked her interest in fashion and always stood out for dressing with grace and pep both in formal occasions and leisure time. Numbers of brands took a cue from her style and countless newspapers followed Lady D’s transformation as she alternated feminine attires like sheath dresses and suit pleated skirts with masculine cut blazers. Today, her looks are still popping up on the feed of social media such as Pinterest and Instagram.
Tory Burch, however, moves away from the Diana Spencer fashion icon: the US designer pays tribute instead to the philanthropic nature and values that the Princess showed by supporting humanitarian associations and campaigns and building friendships with spiritual leaders like Mother Teresa of Calcutta.
An undoubtedly complex mission, that of recounting Lady D’s humanitarian efforts by using creativity, needle and thread. This is why Tory Burch’s SS 2020 collection actually turns out to be a freer reinterpretation of the ‘80s rather than a new take on the departed icon’s style, as it is rich in subtle references and quotes from those years.
Voicing a functional yet chic fashion, Tory Burch presented an exclusive line with a bold language, recalling the ‘8os but from a cautious distance that prevents any parodic effect.
Many are the references like discreet puff sleeves with bows, harem trousers, bustiers and tweed (with an obvious hint at Ungaro and Chanel), shirt dresses and hourglass dresses.
The runway show was opened by top model Natalia Vodianova in a tank top, a long silk organdy skirt and sneakers. What do Lady D and the model have in common, according to Tory Burch? Humanitarianism itself: Vodianova’s Naked Heart Foundation builds play parks and playgrounds in Russia.
The collection generally proves to be a measured way of experimenting out of the comfort zone, where the brand’s classic embroideries have been reinvented as decorative details on the sweaters