Touches of surrealism, accurate cultural references, charcoal drawings, a selection of works by photographer Yasuhiro Wakabayashi, and cult objects like Guerlain’s Shalimar perfume bottle, all mixed with family pictures and artsy inspirations. A peek at Daniel Rosberry’s Instagram profile is enough to have a comp card of his vision as the creative director of Schiaparelli, capable of blending the brand’s heritage and strong aesthetics with his own background.
The Texan designer’s path inside the fashion house has already been marked by huge achievements: one of the latest was the 77th edition of the Golden Globe Awards, where he designed a custom black silk crepe dress with woven gold mesh for Beyoncé.
But there is more to the glam that gravitates around international celebrities than just the sparkle of fashionable nights. Needless to say, evening gowns are here to stay, but Roseberry has also turned to daywear to meet different women’s tastes and needs too – women in roles well out of the spotlight, like those who are “on the board of some museum”, as he said.
This new style already permeated Schiap’s couture Spring 2020 show, which followed a double line: on one side, slightly draped silk dresses, some pretty minimalist; on the other, the codes of tailoring, like suits and spencer jackets with precious details.
Embroideries and ornaments that grow into all-over, surrealist decorations, like a cascade of crystals on a dress, skeletal jewels and rhinestone bone details inspired by a Schiaparelli jersey dress from 1938, or icons like the padlock and the Shocking perfume bottle.
There is simply no end to inspirations: references to the 1930s, like the Deco furniture with an essential twist, interior designer Jean-Michel Frank’s work for the color palette, Alberto Giacometti for the hints at Surrealism, and vintage shots of Elle MacPherson.